Two Wheels, One View: A Pillion's Ride to Portugal

Editor note: This is a guest contribution and reflects the writer's own experience and route conditions at the time of travel.

Day 1: Nottingham to Portsmouth

The trip started late with a flat battery, motorway rain, heavy traffic, and a very tense run into Portsmouth with the fuel light on. After a missed turn and a slippery fall in a petrol station, we finally made boarding. Once the bike was strapped down and we were in the cabin, the stress dropped.

Days 2 to 3: Ferry to Santander and Ride to Santiago

We chose the Portsmouth to Santander ferry to skip the long ride through France. It was a slower start, but a much fresher one. From Santander, we rode the E70/AP9 through tunnels and viaducts, with coast glimpses and rain returning on the climbs. We reached Santiago cold, tired, and hungry, just in time for a very late dinner.

Days 4 to 7: Santiago and A Coruna

These days mixed city exploring with weather delays. Santiago's cathedral and old streets were unforgettable, while A Coruna added windswept drama at the Torre de Hercules. Some days were all tea and waiting out the rain. Others gave us market mornings, cathedral visits, and long city walks.

Day 8: Into Portugal, Arrival in Braga

The ride south included repeated toll booths, a card machine failure, and one lost glove on a motorway acceleration. The route was still beautiful. We crossed into Portugal and reached Braga, where the villa views made the rough weather feel worth it.

Days 9 to 11: Braga and Porto

Braga brought old-town wandering, squares, and replacement gloves. Porto added steep streets, river views, and transport confusion on the way home. It was one of those days that is brilliant in memory and chaotic while you are living it.

Day 12: Storm Claudia and a Route Change

With severe weather forecast, we scrapped plans for Cascais and Evora and headed back toward Spain, breaking in Toro. The ride was brutal rain, tunnel reprieves, and one upsetting road incident we could not safely stop for. We arrived soaked, exhausted, and grateful for a warm room.

Days 13 to 19: Arges Base, Toledo, and Madrid

More rain and strong crosswinds made the ride to Arges one of the toughest. Several days were weathered indoors. Then Toledo delivered one of the trip highlights: old-city streets, sunshine at last, and a zip line crossing. A Madrid day trip followed with busy streets, a glove hunt, and missed landmarks.

Days 20 to 22: Return to Santander

Packing for the return was harder than expected. The route north shifted from sunshine to sleet to full snow in the mountains before dropping back into bright coastal weather near Santander. Those final mountain kilometres were the most demanding riding of the trip.

Days 23 to 24: Ferry Home and Final Ride

The Bay of Biscay crossing was rough. By Portsmouth, it was late, cold, and we chose to ride straight home instead of stopping overnight. We arrived frozen, shattered, and very happy to be back.

Final Thoughts

It was an unforgettable route with extraordinary cities, difficult weather, and many unexpected moments. If we did it again, we would not choose November, but we would absolutely choose the journey itself.